4L80E Lube Mods

@onenewworldmonkey 7ヶ月前

Hello again and thanks again for this video. I have referred to it several times and would bet you it will have many views. The reason I'm commenting is to tell you a quick story (as quick as possible) as to why I am afraid of some of the holes or size. This is my first transmission rebuild. About 30 years ago I bought a dodge dakota for $300 with a blown motor. I think it was an 87?? I can't remember. I found a low mileage motor by luck for $100! When I picked it up I found it was fuel injection whereas mine was carb. I planned to simply put my carb, heads, and intake on the fuel injected one. Everyone said it wouldn't work. I did it anyhow. Upon starting, at first, sounded fine. Within 10 minutes I burned up all of the rocker arms. Turns out, they moved the oil holes which lubricate the rocker arm assembly. I put an elbow fitting on the back of the engine to the oil pressure sending unit then ran brake lines down through each valve cover and tapped into the rail on which the rocker arms pivot to oil via a new route. (all of this after putting different rocker arms on, of course). I started the motor and realized the gauge registered no oil pressure. Turns out the oil was flowing straight through the rocker arms not allowing any pressure to build in the other components. I put a ball valve from plumbing in line after the elbow, turned the handle until I got a little over 30 pounds of oil pressure then removed the handle. I drove that dakota for 13 years like that until the frame rusted out. I remember blowing the mind of some super dodge technician upon learning of it. I'm afraid of drilling a hole and allowing too much oil to flow, which will lower pressure somewhere. If you look at the holes in the sunshaft, for example. The later ones are much smaller than the older ones. Perhaps with restriction in mind. I know all of your modifications are everywhere on line and I thank you very much for this video. The drain one on the pump is an obvious improvement. I wonder, though, when not increasing line pressure with that sonnax spring if some of the other ones will cause harm. Incidentally, the sonnax pressure regulator spring is 12.69 lbs at 1.235", transgo white is 15.56, green in 18.74, and blue is 17.58,. I would think hole size should coincide with the aforementioned-along with other stuff. I wonder about shimming my stock one, but find nothing about it. Believe me, I'm, not trying to find fault. In fact, I'd rather praise you for doing what others havent. I'm just sharing information in hopes of improving all of us.

@hybridmusclegarage4590 1年前

Awesome man!

@papergatorzfedducca7998 1年前

I love this video!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥

@mrrobot545 1年前

On the Direct drum bleed holes. I have been drilling on a drill press from the other side. If you measure .442 from the outer edge it puts the hole in a perfect spot. Saves a lot of drill bits.

@onenewworldmonkey 9ヶ月前

I'm impressed. I am rebuilding my 2500hd I've owned over 10 years and hope to get another 10. I've decided to not do most of the mods everyone else does (dual feed, rollerize rear, transgo shift) but will nervously do these, I think. I am getting that boost valve for the pump. I have a manual that recommends drilling a hole in the case: "Drill a 1/8"-3/16" hole through the case wall. This will offer a larger exhaust for the reverse boost oil that has cross-leaked into the torque signal circuit (figure three)" This came from a 1994 technical bulletin #264. It lists 4 solutions to stop the reverse boost oil from too much pressure that breaks the case. Should I do this? If your wondering, the other 3 solutions are to change the boost valve, check the separator plate and gaskets, and Replace the force motor to one without a screen. I'm going as cheap as I can without putting Chinese crap in it. (yes, I said it). I cannot find anything on this subject. I bought a used one from facebook for $150. I thought about just putting it in my truck but decided a $150 tranny from a guy who knows nothing about it may be wasted effort, so I tore it apart (and watched 200 videos on the subject). This thing is like new! I rigged up a vacuum tester for the valve body and it is, once again, like new! I thought the planets got a little hot and may need attention so I went to a tranny shop and he said to just put it all right back together and go with it. So I bought news seals and gaskets. Then I bought Warner clutches. Then I bought Durobond essential bushing (9 of them) and a new set of bushing drivers. Then I bent one of the return springs with my big press so I bought a cheap table top press. Now I decided to get the most miles out of it (got 500k out of a car once) I should change any moving bearing so all sprags and thrust bearings. I should have just thrown it in the truck after getting it from facebook. Someone needs to pull me away from this thing. Anyhow, should I drill that tranny recommended by the technical bulletin?

@jonathansmith8815 6日前

Hi Nick. Love you videos. Im currently rebuilding a pre 97 4l80e following your hi performance 4l80 series and was wanting to ask do you do all these same lube mods aside from the dual feed and pump drain back when using the sure cure kit ? Thanks in advance

@inscoredbz 1年前

Do you ever do the line to lube mod in the th400 pump? I've read about it, but haven't seen it promoted.

@alchampion340 2ヶ月前

These modifications will help in the early models also?

@gunshipproduct2 1ヶ月前

Nick, ive drilled the 1/4" hole on the pump body (the last drilled hole in the video) but i was a little shallow on the angle and the drill bit has taken a scallop out of the pump body (I hope you can visualize wbat im taling about) have i ruined the pump?