Making a Line Boring Bar | Arbor Press Restoration

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2023-07-29に共有
Today we're putting together a line boring bar, but the twist is that this one is for use in a horizontal mill. You'll see us put the glorious American Tool Works Co. lathe to work along with the Bridgeport mill, among other things - and we have some nice broaching action for you, too. Thanks for swinging by and enjoy the video!

Instagram: @vanovercustoms

コメント (21)
  • @mudnducs
    Man I love that Pacemaker! My first lathe was an old Monarch series 60/61 and I thought it was smooth and massive…until I saw a Pacemaker in the machine shop at Bonneville dam Powerhouse 2. What a machine!
  • @marcosmota1094
    Your delivery and presentation style are awesome, very efficient. You answer the questions in viewers' minds. And you credited JT!
  • @kalpetkoff
    My new favorite machine channel. Love your work and presentation.
  • Biggest thing about pushing a broach is the proper clearance drill and a firm steady push with lots of lube. Make sure the work piece is FIRMLY held in place. Hydraulic press is best. I have done thousands of holes. Make sure your broach is sharp to reduce friction. Dull broaches are harder to push and will cut under size. 36 year aerospace career (retired)...
  • @homemadetools
    Great job. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
  • @dougpersell8776
    I worked in a shop that rebuilt rock crushers back in the late 80s. The shop had stuff they had built out of all used stuff. I learned alot the hard way. I wish the internet would have been around back then.
  • I like to drill the hole for broaching and then use a 1/4 endmill to mill it square and then use the broach to finish out the corners. This helps to keep the broach square to the bar. Also on the mill we usually put the bar right down in the t slot and clamp it. this acts like a really long v block and you dont have to keep repositioning the shaft in the vise.
  • @MyLilMule
    Nice job. I'd be nervous with the broach, too. And I really think you should scrape the bottom of those angle plates. 😉😂
  • @tark6722
    Лучший асмр на планете, и звук техники и голос. Просто оооуумй
  • @JeremiahL
    Rigidity and stiffness are the same thing. Hardness is the resistance to localized deformation. When you talk about hardness in metals, you are usually talking about abrasion resistance, toughness, and wear resistance. After heat treating for example, stiffness does not change, but hardness is improved and the yield strength, and tensile strength are improved. Yield strength is how far you can bend something before it deforms permanently... This sounds like it would affect the stiffness, but it doesn't. This topic is confusing and widely misunderstood... Love the channel and the content. Cant wait to see what you come up with next!
  • @Freetheworldnow
    I really enjoyed your video. I thought that perhaps if you would make a jig with a hole squared the size required for the job, that would be used to for the sole purpose of squaring the broach vis a vis the axis of the bar, could greatly improve the alignment. But I realize that for your purpose it is not super critical... To me, there is good value in this type of exercise. Well done also on the two angle bar supports. Also nice to say it came from Mr. Tupper. He has a great channel as well. Thanks for sharing and posting! God Bless. WWG1WGA
  • @waynec369
    Man... I was wringing my hands and yelling at the screen while you had that piece of strut under the work. F'ck me... that was unnerving. Gotta keep the broach square and parallel with the hole the entire time. The smaller the broach the more critical this becomes. An 1/8" broach will snap just like a toothpick just by breathing on the press handle if these conditions aren't met. And, I might add, that sure is a nice looking chuck to be ruining by "power tapping" without a tap holder.
  • I like the big red vice fella. What brand, cost and how did you find the beast ???
  • If you drill the center doesn't that put your tool bit above center of bore?