Machine your own Low Profile Slitting Saw Arbor

A similar build by Matthew Perlman Check out his version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE7hHh98aBU

One of those things that are obvious AFTER you see it done: The head of the cap screw can go INSIDE the bore of the tool. Thanks.

You give excellent info Joe, and I thank you. So here's a tip for you: I use Heat treatment quenching oil as a cutting lubricant. It is designed to have a extremely high flash point so it doesn't smoke when you cut with it. I get it from Brownells and it keeps my basement shop smoke free.

Good design! What I like to use as a material for the shank is case hardened linear shaft, it comes fairly straight and nicely centerless ground.

very much appreciated especially pointing out the technical issues of what to look out for. - like the square inside corner at the seat of the saw blade and how you overcome the issue. great work.

What a great tool holder! Well there is a one advantage lets call it if you put long screw from back and make threads inside the cap.You can put a tailstock center if you are going to use a slitting saw on the lathe.That way you get rigid setup. I know,i know slitting saws arent exactly a lathe tool but beggars cant be choosers and if you got milling attachment its a tool you can use if you are too poor to afford milling machine.

JOE PIE--this comment does NOT go with this video. Your technique for setting an ACCURATE angle on the lathe cross slide is second to none ! A little bit fiddly, but so accurate, and REPEATABLE ! Thank you x 3 Paul P

I have just about finished making the internal key , piston type as i have never seen one before . And then you show one ! I did not realise they were even available . Cheers .

I like how the low profile is attained by sliding the cutting blade arbor OD into the main arbor ID. This makes it robust and usable with varying thicknesses of cutting blades. Nice design, Thanks for sharing.

Sweet one - I need to make one of these myself. Thanks for taking the extra effort to do high fidelity voiceovers. They really make these videos more enjoyable.

Another great video, Joe. Covers all the bases, no radius inside corners, using the larger cap screw, perfect. Thanks for your time!

I never knew the slitting saws were hollow ground. I was gifted a bunch of them by the widow of a wonderful machinist, and I've always taken baby cuts fearing a binding accident. Makes my day to learn this!

I'm really glad you made that comment at 3:45 about "chewing sounds". Despite making very accurate arbors ALL of my slitting saws run eccentrically. I suspect the manufacturers are not as careful as we are, tolerance wise, when they grind them! I'll make another one just to see if I can eliminate that effect. Cheers from NZ - your videos are the ultimate mentoring program for us hobbyists.

Thank you, Joe! This is exactly what I was searching for for a hobby project! It's awesome that pros like you are willing to share this kind of thing.

I've been watching your videos for years, and as usual, another great project Joe . There are so many people out there making videos regarding "machine shop tools/builds/how to's etc. yet only a few are good educators as well. Its a whole new level if you can put your content across in such a way that enables absolutely anyone to be able to understand what you're doing and what you're talking about.

I have several slitting saws that are awaiting a new arbor! Thanks for sharing and keep up your great work!

I made one arbor similar many years back, and an old tool and die maker told me to put it into the mill and then true up the face and it will always run true, It definitely worker for me,

Without a doubt I have learned more tips and tricks from you Joe,thank you for sharing your craft🤗

Great Project! great to see you give all the conversions to metric for 99.9% of your jobs now, This is great for us using the metric system 'down under' keep up all the great work!

Thank You again Joe. I have to machine up an new arbor, for a new design I'm working on, and this Arbor design, will be a major help to me with this job. Just a Dumb Question from me Joe, I'm a 64 year old, that has worked in my trade (Mechanical Fitter-Machinist (manual), etc), all of my working career. I have noticed on a number of occasions in your Great videos, that when you are using a Centre Drill, to start a hole in material, that you drill into the material, so that the Tapered/Beveled section that the centre drill hole makes, is larger in diameter, than the diameter of the following twist drill (see at 7 Minutes and 10 Seconds, in the above video). I remember back to the mid 1970's, where my Tech Teacher (Mr John Saunders), told me to ensure that the tapered section of the centre drill hole diameter, should be smaller than the following twist drill? Have things changed over the years, or does it make no real difference? Best regards, JB, Australia.