Making New Drawbars for the ZX7045 Milling Machine

I must be the only one who didn’t see anything wrong, very educational Jon.

Ha Ha been there , done that . Doing a rush job for my self off camera . My mind was completely elsewhere at the time but picked up on it in time & saved the part !!! I am sure everybody has done it at some stage ! Great result 👍

Your honesty makes you a "Saint" !!! We've all done it...

I was yelling at the screen about that compound angle! These days I use carbide full-form threading inserts and plunge straight in with the lathe in reverse and a rear toolpost, must be five years since I used the compound for threading. There's something very satisfactory about the proportions of a nicely made shouldered nut.

Well done Jon Leaving in the mistakes helps everyone learn. I was one of those shouting the angle was wrong!

Your building a nice little channel matey. Some very interesting stuff. Cheers

I can't tell you how pleased you posting the mistake and leaving it in the video I am. Let me explain Im just a hobby home gamer so rely on YouTube videos like yours for information. For a few weeks now ive been trying unsuccessfully to single point cut a non standard 3/4" 8 tpi bsw thread and thats exactly what I've been doing wrong! The first 3 or 4 passes seem ok then it either breaks the tip or just starts basically ripping a thread! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Hi Jon, another excellent video! I enjoyed it! 👍 Regards Tony

Hi John, I've always just plunged straight in, no compound angle, even at tech college that how we cut the thread, been doing it for years. Both acme and vee, although ran spindle slower and found reversing lathe was the best way. Less cursing! Anyway there always more than one way to skin a cat

G'day Jon ,, good to see threading with HSS instead of a insert.👍

Liked the way you made them nuts I would of forgot to add on the width of the parting off tool lol thanks for your time Jon

Nice job...Tools are the coolest...

Almost every time we think it's an easy little job, we screw up. Because of not enough thinking... Good thing you could recover it.

Great video Jon, that boring head looks like a cracking bit of kit

Nice job Jon. I always enjoy your explications.

Gday Jon, I was looking at the compound and thinking it don’t look right but sadly you couldn’t here me trying to say something, I try to single point all my external threads, I find it enjoyable, I used to put a thread relief but now I just draw the tool out at the end and this saves another process, great job mate, cheers

Nice little project. Works differently to the drawbar for my mill - which is just a very long bolt with a hex end [I made a replacement by whittling down a 19mm hex-bar, since the one that came with mine only fits the one arbor that came with my mill - Clarkson one - and all the tooling I've bought is M10, not 3/8" Whitworth]. I too spotted the 30 degrees in the wrong axis. Largely because I made the same exact mistake. I've since learned that some lathes have the angle scale relative to X, some relative to Y. So, on some lathes, you'd be setting it to 30 degrees (or 27 or whatever), and others you set it to 90-<30, 27, etc>. And I've also learned that it's only required for quite coarse threads. There's no need to do that for threads up to around 3mm pitch (unless the material is very tough).

Oh dear, I spotted the compound at the wrong angle and could tell what was coming😟. I have an M300 too except mine is a 4tpi leadscrew. I do quite a bit of single point threading, so a couple of things I did to improve life: 1. Get a decent piece of HSS, pref UK made, it chips far less on the tip. 2. Make sure the tip has the sharp point stoned to a radius. For a biggish thread it can be quite rounded and I have different bits for much finer threads. A runout groove at the end of the threads would help too. I never stop the motor to terminate the threads, I've set the rampdown rime to 2.5s so its too imprecise. I use the technique of opening the halfnuts, stop the motor, pull the tool out, reverse the lathe and reengage on the same number. As long as your threading dial doesn't do a complete revolution the leadscrew and thread will still be correctly synced up.

Nice recovery. Thx for the vid.

Hi Jon, nice job on the draw bars. I'm sure it won't be 25 years before the next go. Regards Kevin