11 Fatal Wiring Mistakes DIYers Don't Know They Are Making

Publicado 2023-04-23
If in doubt, hire a professional. These are some great ideas and opinions from our own experience and some may differ from industry ratings or certifications.
More DIY electrical tips here: kerfonline.com/3duj

Todos los comentarios (21)
  • @Immolate62
    A fifteen amp circuit with 14/2 Romex and a fifteen amp outlet is perfectly appropriate for many applications and will not overheat when properly deployed. If you put a device on the outlet that tries to draw more than 15 amps, you will trip the breaker. I advise against putting a 20 amp outlet on 14/2 Romex because it might cause someone with a higher draw device to try to rely upon it. The breaker will keep you safe, but it makes sense for the outlet to inform the user of what underlies it. Most 120V outlets in most homes will be 15 amp. Would it be nice to have all outlets @ 20 amps? Sure, but 12 gauge wire is more expensive and it's also harder to maneuver. The clamping connections on newer outlets is perfectly safe and will not risk either overheating or coming lose. The backstab holes are more risky and most electricians will advise against them even though code allows them, but the side clamps are very safe when properly installed. Something else to mention is that you must now protect all outlets in shops and garages with GFCI. Loving the new videos Jessie. I didn't realize how much I missed you guys until you came back and reminded me!
  • Great video. Nicely said…. Some of us unfortunately have aluminum wiring in our homes and there’s another big mistake people can make is mixing and connecting the two types of metal together (Al & Cu). There’s also the need to watch what kind of metal the switch or outlet is rated to work with. There’s proper ways to mix the two safely. Do this wrong and you will have an issue, there’s no luck involved.
  • I don’t agree with #3, #6, and #7 but otherwise it was good info. #3, 14 gauge wire and 15A receptacles are very common. 15A circuits only require 14 gauge wire. #6, I didn’t notice you mention that upgrading to a 20A receptacles requires that the circuit is in fact 20A and has 12 gauge wire ran. #7, Screw clamps are perfectly reliable and are on high quality 20A receptacles such as Eaton Commercial.
  • @johnduer7428
    Great instructions, I was an electronic tech for over 40 years and this was by far the best instruction video I have seen in years.
  • @davidscott5903
    I've always hated those stab connector outlets since I had to help my sister track down the loose connection that killed power to half a room's outlets.
  • @krm8372
    Watch using those Romeo strippers on 3 wire…..those are designed for 2 wire. You will cut the 3rd wire
  • @6yjjk
    What I'm getting from mistake 6 is, install 20A outlets because they're better quality. But now I can plug a 20A appliance into a 15A circuit. That doesn't seem like a good idea.
  • @ashkansayadi
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  • @evanmartin7809
    Couple things that you aren't necessarily correct on. The difference between and 15A and 20A outlet in many cases is ONLY the front plastic cover. Many manufacturers use the exact same internals between the 2 because it is more cost effective. Obviously that only applies to outlets of the same grade, a $0.50 outlet is going to be less robust than a $2 outlet. Also for the back wiring with the screw plate, that is a very strong electrical connection. If you think about it, you only need as much contact in the connection as the cross sectional area of the wire. That plate is going to give you much more than you need, and can actually be a better connection if you hook isn't perfect. And you can get 20A outlets with the back wiring, they just aren't as common. Back stab is different than back wiring (push-in vs screw plate)
  • Great video just wanted to make two comments. 1. Your video seems to suggest that 14Ga wire is white and 12Ga is yellow, which is not always the case. The jacket color is not an indication of Guage. This could confuse amatuers. 2. It has been lost knowledge even to many modern electricians but the "Poke" terminals do have a purpose. In the 60s/70s aluminum & copper clad aluminum wire was allowed. The coefficient of expansion of aluminum is about 35% greater than copper. Over time this can cause screw terminals to lossen, so the spring ("Poke") terminal were added to the back of outlets to compensate as they are supposed to expand/contract with the aluminum wire. It was my understanding at the time that the screw terminals should never be used with aluminum wire.
  • The wire size is always matched up with breaker size, #14 should be a 15 amp breaker and a #12 should be a 20 amp breaker in most case. In longer runs of copper wire this may change. They still use 15 amp outlets in many homes and in new construction ,with #14 wire and 15 amp breaker!
  • Could you do a video on siding and framing mistakes that DIY'ers make?
  • @ChrisPlotz
    Though I agree with most of what you’re saying, the code dictates where those outlets go. 15amp outlets are rated for kitchen counter tops and bedrooms. Vacuums don’t use over 15 amps most of the time either. The UL listed push in wire nuts are rated for 32 amps so the push in connector on that outlet is sufficient when the plug is located in the right spot. It’s not a fire hazard when used correctly. Most other outlets are rated for 20amps so you still have a breakdown potential in the wire when someone plugs in say a 30amp saw motor which is why the code mandates arc fault breakers with thermal capability. So if the code is fallowed this is a non issue. Additionally we use three wire which you have shown in the 14 gauge wire in white we use for outlets that may be switched. I agree it’s not common but not something to be worried about initially. I do agree that if you don’t have a black or red wire behind a switch or outlet that you need to be cautious and probably pull the wire or identify and shrink wrap with the correct color.
  • 2009' Local Code outlawed 14ga romex for residential. I don't live there anymore but I still simply wire every house with 12ga only. As an Electrician since 1993' it is cheap, simple insurance. I have never stabbed 14ga in the back of an outlet. I am a SIPs builder that offered to help you with wiring your house when I saw your Timber frame was placed to the edge of the decking. Glad you are back.
  • @SteveM0732
    My dad was an electrician and he taught me to wrap the wire around the screw and pigtail when needed, just as you have shown. Striping of the outer sheath of the Romex was down with a utility knife, but I don't think they had that nifty stripper tool back then.
  • Hi Jessy, that is why I am never moving to America. There is one thing you did not mention and that is the earth wire, here in the UK you can get covering for this wire because a lot of people leave about 6” of bare wire that is shoved into the box and can potentially touch any of the screws and cause a short.
  • @olivier2553
    One issue I have with USA wire gauges is that is gives a false information: 12 gauge is more than 50% bigger than 14 gauge, so 12 gauge is able to carry more than 50% more electricity than 14 gauge, but 12 and 14 seems deceptively close.
  • @jamess1787
    Surface area contact for 15A isn't as big of an issue as you think (torque the connection and use the number of recommended conductors). Those receptacles are all UL/CSA rated, so you're fine to use them as they are intended (rather as mfg suggests). "Compression-plate" is fine, and so is the back-stabbing method. I don't like the "back-stabbing" but it doesn't mean that it's wrong or going to burn your house down. It's tested and rated for the outlined application. Lots of online testing has been done by people running current over different gauge wires... All I can say is follow code, do things safely, don't skimp and do a good job... If you can't follow these steps: call a professional/certified electrician! I'm sure electricians will say the same.
  • @KenTheJr
    Excellent video! FYI “electrocution” = “electrical” + “execution”. I don’t think you mean to say the result is death when you use that word. “Electric shock” is usually the term used when death isn’t the result.
  • @Sparkeee1978
    Pressure plates on the side on outlets are utilized because they are listed for both solid wire, and stranded wire. common in commercial applications where stranded wire is more common. The pressure plate style, as well as the wire curl style have both proven to be very solid connections. The Stab-lok connections, as you have stated, are absolutely horrible, and should be outlawed in my opinion.