Suspension Basics 03: Watts Link, Triangulated Four Link and Panhard Bar Explained

I’ve been doing suspension for 30 years now... I’m pretty sure I couldn’t explain it better... well done sir...

I'm definitely not tired of these "school" type videos. I find them very helpful and your models and drawings are amazing. I know how much time they take. I really appreciate them.

When I'm fabbing something, I refer to it as a "Shopping Cart Handle" to keep people guessing. It's especially satisfying when someone agrees with me.

How do you only have 26.1K subs? RIGHT? This information is so accurate and understandable all while being articulated very well. Thanks for sharing!

I am an offroader that usually watches jeep related channels. Yet you provided the best explanation of a triangulated four-link that I have ever seen. Thank you!

Knowledge is among the greatest gifts that can be given, and you have a gift for giving it. Love that visual aid! Almost want to go build one just to play with. This channel is gonna be a huge success.

I'm fairly dense without visually seeing so the fact that you took the time to create the model is awesome very clear and easy to understand and follow along.

DUDE! That scale model is a GREAT idea to demonstrate how each of these types of suspension work. One that I didn't see mentioned is the parallel 4 link with a wishbone (what I'm running in the Buick). It's a combination of the parallel 4 link which gives you more adjustability for traction and the triangulated 4 link which centers the housing in the vehicle. None the less, this is a great explination.

I have to say, I’ve built countless rear suspension setups and this video was amazing! Not sure there is a better way to break it down and explain it!

This was insanely informative. I'm a freshman mechanical engineering student and this reminded me why I'm interested in the first place. Thank you!

First off, this is an excellent video, I love the model as well, that's awesome :) The big trap with a triangulated four link is the forces; the longer the four link upper bars the higher the forces, but the forces in a triangulated four link will never be as low as the forces in a Watt's link. In the case of the model you've presented I'd guess that the angle of the links is something in the order of 30 degrees off the vehicle axis. That means that the link forces will be approximately double those of the Watt's link. You'll end up with a higher risk of linkage collapse as well, because you've got a longer link than parallel four links, with the added forces associated with both the drive and longitudinal forces as well as the lateral force adder. This can substantially increase the chance of long column collapse. Additionally it'll put a lot higher loads on the chassis attachment points. It'll also potentially limit the life of the joints. IMO the best linkage setup for anyone who's not smashing it with a CAD or specific suspension design program is probably three link with watts or panhard bar... It's a lot more fault tolerant than other suspension designs for live axle. If you've got the knowledge to look at joint compliance for a four link, then a parallel four link is better, but without correct bush design it'll bind and can damage bushes or mechanically lock at certain positions. Triangulated four links will also create lateral axle movements, but this movement occurs when you lift a single wheel.

I’m rewatching this series before I start my 88 S10 4link setup. I love the way your mighty max is set up so I’m ordering a Thornros. Super lift triangulated 4link I want to use 30” bars for the least amount of pinion angle change. Love the videos! Keep em coming buddy!

THANK YOU for this video. I have to go back and watch 1 and 2. My gfs and I are so lost on this custom build. It's just this one little pice of science... Amber and I along wit Rachel, handing us tools & supplies (& lunch!) took a 2001 Ford Ranger, tossed out the v6 motor and trans (after replacing 4 v6 sohc engines!!!), removed the front torsion bars and cut off their mounts, and now we threw a built fuel injected 302 and c6 trans in to the frame, converted the front suspension to coilovers instead of torsion bars and shocks, and now the rear is getting a triangulated 4 link and coilovers instead of leaf springs and shocks. But honestly I have never built a rear 4 link before and so just this video alone already helps me understand a little of the geometry!

Love the tech, illustrations and editing. Keep it coming!

to effect a longer arm for most suspensions shunt the top section back, it has the efect of a longer top bar for most usual suspension travels, it does however place the pinion nose in an S formation of travel. Also for a more sturdy "triangulated 4 bar", just create a solid A frame and so the axle has a single pivot point (whether a ball or rose joint it makes no odds). In all cases the suspension will travel in a curve, it's physics of tying one end to a fixed point, because on a Watt's link there are 2 tied ends the curve is different above the medium and below it, so you will get a S shaped travel, it might not be very pronounced but it's goin to be there. It's good that you highlighted this but only effects in extreme upper and lower positions. The longer the centre pivot bar the more pronounced the S will be. All suspension setups have disadvantages, it's finding the one you can live with it's disadvantages or the disadvantages don't come into play on your amount of travel.

Really great overview. I watch a few off road fabrication channels, and they usually don't get anywhere near in-depth as you on this stuff. See lots of panhard bars too! (I'm surprised how many given these vehicles have a fair bit of travel.) One common upgrade to the high end builds is a triangulated 4 link. Now I understand why. I always thought it was just for more travel.

I stumbled on your channel . All I have to say is WOW. Just got a new Youtube channel set up. No content yet. A friend and I will be just showing what we enjoy from Rats and Mini Trucks : ME and 4x4 and Odd rides : Him. Please do not change from showing the educational things. This is so needed. Im 56 and loved mini trucks sense my first one in 1984. 100 show placements . Have not touched a truck in 30 years. A lot has changed . Never welded a thing. We plan to show even at 56 and 58 years old you can start a new and have fun. I just want to thank you for being willing to teach . Not everyone can or will. May GOD richly bless you for doing this.

Love these lessons as much as the builds. There's a lot of people in the mini truckin scene, new and old, that can benefit from knowing the basics. Build it right the first time.

This was easily one of the easiest to understand videos i’ve ever watched

you are the king of explanations. took your info to the rc cars world, I am very new to this. thank you