8 Old School Tips For Better Hand Filing

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Published 2018-04-01
8 Old School Tips For Better Hand Filing, by Clickspring

This video was done as a one-off viewer request but I like the format so I'm going to keep it going as a request driven series - Let me know what you want to see covered in the comments below - Cheers :)

If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: www.patreon.com/clickspring
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Cameras used in this video:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT

Tools & Shop Products:
Optivisor Headband Magnifier: amzn.to/2HFg1FU
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: amzn.to/2HCOAMX
Hegner Scroll Saw: amzn.to/2IhteVW
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: amzn.to/2IO6aPw
Digital Calipers: amzn.to/2IkFh4O

Abbreviated Transcript:

00:42 I use Swiss made Grobet files for the vast majority of my filing and I find them to be excellent. So If you're looking to track some down, be sure to confirm that they are actually made in Switzerland before you buy, and keep an eye out for the bunny on the tang.
01:22 A safe edge like this effectively isolates the cutting to a single surface, and it forms a key part of my filing technique. Because when I'm filing something that needs to be precise, like for example a rectangle thats required to be dead on center. I like to have the basic target profile formed, very early in the filing process, before I use up too much of the available metal.
02:49 Next I identify the critical corners of the workpiece. These are the locations that must be well positioned for the part to be acceptable. And then I start the cut working directly towards those corners, with the objective of establishing the overall shape whilst using up as little of the metal margin as possible.
03:32 And its not unusual for this last part of the process to take up most of the time. Because there's often only a handful of file strokes between a tight and a perfect fit. The very last thing I want to do is take it too far, and remove too much metal. Now this idea can be applied to just about any profile, whether it be internal or external.
04:07 If I get the corners correctly established early, then the orientation can be locked in. And the whole shape can be slowly worked toward the final profile. Now of course that's the ideal, but it rarely goes according to the plan, which leads to tip Number 4. 05:36 Now there is an even more immediate technique that can be used to pick up errors, as they occur. Just prior to each cut, a light cross grain pattern can be made on the surface of the work, and then a light can be positioned to make that pattern more visible.
06:14 Because it means that rather than reacting after completing a surface, I can take a much more proactive approach while the cut is in progress. And it makes creating a taper or dealing with a localised error easier too. Just mark the region where more metal needs to be removed, and then concentrate the work there.
06:59 And although the effect is quite subtle, the shop itself has a few reference edges too, that can also help the process. Aligning the work with the vise, and then the vise with the bench means that all of these edges that are sitting in my peripheral vision as I work, and can now also give me cues for better alignment of the file.
07:38 And the fact that its held with both hands means that there's a good controlled grip to keep it that way. So the technique is perfect for delivering a very precise surface. Its also an excellent technique help generate on 2 or more parts at the same time.
08:47 And the same idea can be expanded to generate more complex shapes using guides, like for example the crossings on this wheel. The shape near the center of the wheel needs to be exactly the same for each opening, and a filing guide makes this much easier to achieve.

References:

"Watchmaking" by Daniels: amzn.to/2FH3cyh
"Workshop practice Series": amzn.to/2DyPs2D

The Nicholson Guide to Files & Filing: www.nicholsontool.com/MagentoShare/media/documents…

8 Old School Tips For Better Hand Filing, by Clickspring

All Comments (21)
  • @Mudsuitable
    when I was growing up my father always said "You're eating like a new file" when I was eating too fast and it always made me smile and still does
  • @ThisOldTony
    great vid and glad to hear of the new series! went too quick, though: time files when you're having fun.
  • @dumbdance
    Not sure if anyone has already mentioned; filing, like any other hand fitting activity, is a whole body exercise. Foot placement and balance is central to producing consistent work. Like any other physical activity it can be fatiguing and when you start to fade, walk away and take a break.
  • @AlecSteele
    Truly phenomenal tutorial! Thank you so much for creating this!!!
  • @paulfeist
    In the same vein as your tip #5 - when you're not yet super-steady at making flat surfaces out of random or rounded ones, a quick swipe with a red sharpie pen can give you a layout surface where you can see where your file is cutting and where it's not. My only tip is keep your files in a wooden block, NOT dumped in a drawer banging against each other! Your good quality files are a PRECISION TOOL! I wince every time I see a hardware store where they've dumped all the files into a box so they can chip and dull each other! Folks; I'm good with a file - Clickspring is EXTRAORDINARY! These are all GREAT tips! Listen to them and RESPECT THE METAL FILE AS A PRECISION TOOL!
  • @Clickspring
    This video was done as a one-off viewer request but I like the format so I'm going to keep it going as a request driven series - Let me know what you want to see covered in the comments below - Cheers :)
  • For checking small work, a first-surface mirror is useful. Lay the work on the mirror; any deviation from true is doubled where the object and the reflection meet. Any line that should be normal to the base, but isn't, will kink where it meets the reflection. An old hard drive platter works well as a mirror, as does a piece of plate glass with the bottom painted black.
  • @hotdrippyglass
    These are the kind of tips that used to be passed on to the apprentice during the first weeks of training. So much second nature to the seasoned craftsman that they're not even thought of when demonstrating to the layman but absolutely invaluable to anyone hoping to learn how the 'magic' happens in the shop. Thanks Again.
  • @Ketaset999
    My secret to cleaning files: I have a bit of copper pipe I smashed down into a chisel edge. Basically just kink and bend off a sturdy bit of copper pipe. I hold the file in the vise and rub parallel to the cutting teeth. The teeth cut their profile into the edge of the copper and it makes for a perfectly fitted scraper that indexes in the teeth. It cleans out the gullets wonderfully. I've only ever used the cheapest files, but your work is convincing me I could do better.
  • @llamamanism
    I have never seen just spectacular precision achieved with hand tools in my life. Thank you for showing me
  • @martinsalko1
    My advice for hand filing abs plastics: #1 get to know the material, by trying to file some 90° cuts #2 get to work on your piece #3 start over because the plastic changed it's shape #4 start yet again because the plastic cracked #5 get a 3d printer #6 get frustrated with setting the first layer #7 get frustrated with filament inconsistency #8 think of how much money you've spent on materials and tools #9 give up, and watch as your life runs away every day #10 quit your job so you have more time for your hobbies, and your friends #11 start working on your project again #12 start thinking about your future, and start making plans for future projects #13 finish the part you started the work on, making sure you don't put much pressure on the plastic, and removing as little plastic as you need #14 use silicone oil to keep the plastic from developing white marks while finishing #15 dry using a paper towel #16 leave the piece for few hours so that you can see if it doesn't warp, then test fit it #17 you're done, if you want to grease the part use grease that doesn't contain carbon as that will grind your plastic. Now, I'm not claiming this is the best method, it takes about 2 years, but by the end you'll have your part and your life will better.
  • @aubreyaub
    Good onya Chris. One thing that is important also, is to remember that a file is a cutting tool, and can be bluntened, by letting them "bash around" together in a box. A file roll, piece of heavy cloth or such, laid out, files laid parallel with a gap between each, and then rolled up. Keeps them safely, separated and stored. That last few thou' is a joy to remove, when fitting. A very satisfactory feeling when done correctly.
  • @TheTomBevis
    The tip of "use good files" is probably he best one. I never thought of having a "safe side", though. that sounds like a great idea.
  • @pcb1962
    Wow, came here after searching for filing tips, blown away by the parts that you made!
  • @verdatum
    Somehow I missed this video until today. As a blackmith, this is a subject that I am very passionate about. People think about blacksmithing as though it is only blades and rough hammered pieces, but in reality, they would file many piece to amazing precision and beauty. As I understand it, filing was often the very first practice given to blacksmith apprentices. I've put a lot of work into learning to file effectively, and I have found that it has payed off immensely.
  • @bub_lite_6361
    ATTN CLICKSPEING: I cannot put into words how I feel when watching your videos. The skills you display when crafting your projects are nothing less than astounding. What I wouldn't give to know 10% of what you know. Of course now I'm legally blind, and that knowledge would be wasted on me. But no matter. I am compelled to tell you how much I admire you and the things you've built. This latest project, the Antikythera mechanism, seems like a monumental task due to your decision to make all parts entirely by hand. I'm eager to see it when completed. Finally, I want to thank you for allowing us to look over the shoulder of a master craftsman. 👍
  • @aka_pcfx
    My tip for beginners is when possible change the orientation you work form a few times so that errors in your posture don't translate to the part. Basicly: if you tend to file away the bottom left corner of your workpiece, spin it so that the previously highest corner is now in the bottom left. This tip is only realy applicable if you want to get within a couple of hundreth of a milimeter. for everithing more precice than that, there is only good old fashioned training.
  • @arisuva9629
    dude, the skill that you show to us, is amazing.. id probably would have to practice for over 20 years to get even close to your skill level...
  • Yeah good lesson. I have held the humble file in high regard for 40 years and picked up a few valuable tips. Thanks , Jeff Perth WA.