How to Repair a Leaking Toilet and Broken Flange - DIY Guide with Oatey Replacement Ring
134,692
Published 2022-01-10
To simply remove and reset a toilet that is in good working order is actually a very simple and quick process. The tricky part comes if there is damage to the flange, which was encountered during the removal process of this video. There are varying levels of damage that could dictate if the shown option of this video will work, or if the flange will have to be replaced entirely. The biggest concern is not to damage the drain pipe itself which will create a much greater issue.
If you do not have any flange damage to worry about, simply skip over those portions of the video and you should be able to use this video for a simple reset of a toilet as well. Time stamps are below.
TImestamps:
Intro- 0:00
Leaking Toilet: 2:37
Removing toilet and wax ring: 3:12
Flange repair and replacement ring install: 8:39
Setting new bolts and Universal Ring (wax ring alternative): 14:02
Resetting and reconnecting toilet:: 15:40
Testing New Toilet: 17:35
Cutting toilet bolts: 18:40
Caulk: 19:11
Outro: 19:38
LINKS: Amazon links are affiliate links and I may receive a small commission if purchased through these links.
Fluidmaster Better Than Wax Toilet Ring - amzn.to/3JUGHmO
Oatey Steel Flange Replacement Ring - www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey-7-in-L-Circle-Round-Stainleโฆ
All Comments (21)
-
This is the first video I found explaining exactly how the bolts and washers should be placed. Thank you so much!
-
Well done. I did not get to see you remove the screws that originally held the flange to the subfloor. But you did show your replacement of the screws and that was well done, good job of problem solving there. Thank you. I'm subscribing.
-
Dude! Harbor Freight sells boxes of nitrile gloves cheap. There's no need to get your bare hands right in the fecal residue. Also, some people say it's better NOT to caulk around the toilet so you can detect any water leakage before you rot out your subfloor.
-
First, after moving the toilet, stuff something into the pipe to keep debris out and sewer gas in.
-
Just saw you remove the toilet and I can already tell you what the problem is: the flange sits below the tiles instead of slightly above them. Cheers.
-
I installed one in my bathroom about 2 years ago (new flooring, vanity and sink project). No problems thus far. My old cast iron flange was 1/2" -3/4" below the level of the floor so I didn't bother to remove it. I was able to install the exact same plastic Oatey flange over the top of the existing cast iron flange. Kinda unique situation I suppose, but certainly saved myself a little time. Also, used the old wax ring to seal around the base of this replacement flange too. No silicone used. Interesting that you too had a little difficulty with the screws securing/gripping to the wood. The angles pre-drilled on the plastic flange could be a little better to accommodate the screws. There's a little angle to them, but they could certainly be improved. Got about 4 or 5 into the wood, but missed on 1 or 2 others too. Overall a pretty easy install. Very happy with the end result. No water or weird gas leaks either. Definitely hit a home run with this DYI project. Also, I used a 3/4" thick Sani Seal elastomer rubber type of product in lieu of the traditional wax ring. Very easy to use and can be reused too. It has a tacky/sticky feel to it and seems incredibly strong/lasting product. There are many different thickness sizes available and also can be with or without the plastic cone attachments. Only a few dollars more than the old fashion wax ring (own a 1/2 dozen of these but doubtful I'll ever use them other than sealing around the flange as I recently did with the old wax ring). Other: drilling out the old lead and using a tool to lift it/pry it out is much better technique than trying to melt it out like another YouTuber did on his channel. Lead fumes are very toxic and harmful to your health. Good to see that you've got a much safer way of removing it.๐
-
Robert I really like your video, very detail , self explanatory , ๐๐ฝ๐๐ฝ๐๐ฝI have exactly the same issue that my project for the weekend now I really feel confident , thank you so much ๐๐๐
-
watch too many videos before I found yours that fit my issue and a lot less cost. Thank you for this video!!! Now I can use savings for spare car parts! LOL
-
The first thing I want to say is this was a life savor for me. I didn't even know the metal flange cover. Worked like a charm for me. So thank you for the video! Second, I have to agree with a few comments here: wear gloves and plug the hole! Last thing you want is that nasty wax going down the pipe. I don't know about the wax-less seals. I've read they break down sooner than the wax.
-
bleach. pinesol, and latex gloves a must. Turn vent fan and plug drain pipe with damp rag or stopper. I prefer flange repair kits by Denco
-
Thanks for the great video with all the details. I appreciate how you talked us through it with the details, like not cracking the porcelain, etc. Subbed.
-
Perfect- I was wondering if I could connect the replacement flange directly to the cast iron flange and you answered that. thanks- great video
-
One wear gloves to avoid septic poisoning. Two, cover the inside of the opening with heavy newspaper or rag wide out not to fall it and not have to smell the stuff.
-
A pvc spacer on top of that flange with a new wax ring. Would have been a better option. But job well done. There is more than one way to skin a cat. Or in this case repair a flange.
-
That groove in the bolts is there so that you can use pliers to break it off.
-
Iโm no pro but Iโve done a few of these in my ti e. Iโve always seen a couple nuts securing the bolts to the flange the another set to secure the toilet
-
Thank you Robert. Very Helpful!
-
Thank you so much. I'm a widow and I may just try this myself to save some money instead of hiring a plumber.
-
Great job and video.
-
Dude just raw dogged that with no gloves, and then got shit all over his tools!๐
