How To Permanently Repair A Garage Floor Crack

Quick Set Repair Epoxy Used: concretefloorsolutions.com/product-category/repair… 10% Discount Code (Enter At Checkout): ehr10 All The Other Tools Used On The Project - amzn.to/47tgzdQ

This is some work. Living in my house for almost 30 years it might take me 2 days to empty where the cracks are. Great job demonstrating this technique. Thank for sharing

Nice video! When I was in Commercial Construction,we had a crack like that and what we did was use a pneumatic crack chaser we rented for the tool rental store. It was a chipper that the point was “U” shaped. So, you followed the crack and it would leave a “U” crack. I believe they are making a grinder blade that has the “U” shape. Tool Rental stores are a great source of equipment! A two part Epoxy works great! However, it can be expensive. At Home Depot and Lowe’s in the Quikrete area they sell 1-2 gal buckets of “Hydraulic Cement”. It is a great product ! Be sure to wear Nitrile Gloves! It will eat up the skin on your hands! Follow instructions by adding the correct amount of water. It will become the consistency of dough. Mix small amounts for the first few time so you can see how fast it sets up. Put some in your and roll it like Play dough. Roll it to the width or just a little smaller of the crack in the shape of a rope and press it into the crack. You will feel it get warm while rolling it out. Let the magic happen! Hydraulic cement expands as it fill all the voids. In fact, it will rise above the floor. Just take a trowel or and strike it flush. Hydraulic Cement is a a great product! I saw pool repair guy use on the pool under water and it worked! He mixed it up and put in a ziplock bag and dove down and pressed it around a crack where the new light left a void. We use it in block and around pipe sleeves in a concrete wall where water was leaking through it. 10 minutes later no more water leaked through!

You do videos so an old lady gets it. Thank you so much.

I will eventually need to do this in my garage too as i have a similar crack but the smaller slab is also off but a few degrees from flat and was thinking of getting someone to level it first by either pumping slurry or foam underneath...

I didn't do near that amount of work. Scraped, used no grinder or mask, dug out cracks, swept, filled with a tube of concrete filler. Two years later, is fine. Even if I have to re-do in a few years, it beats all of this for me. But hat's off to you for your excellent video.

The fact that the crack ran along the entire length, and that the previous attempt didn't hold, means there's a big chance the floor is still under stress, and that crack will open up again. What you SHOULD'VE done is to cut deep notchs (every 3ft or so) perpendicular to the crack, put a staple in each notch, and then do the epoxy throughout the crack and the notches. You can still add them in now, before you do the epoxy finish.

Thank you, Scott. Most helpful and very well explained.. Awesome, great video, very useful! Much appreciated!.

I used a fine mortar mix for my cracks and it seems to have worked great for my situation. Same prep steps as you did, then filled crack with unmixed mortar mix and sprayed water on it till it saturated down thru the depth of the crack. That way I could get the crack filled to the top (which is near impossible with it already wet & mixed. Ground it down and it came out great. The epoxy looks like ti works as well, but I spent $8 on my bag of mix.

Structural engineer here. Great job! Very thorough, well explained, and well executed. The only upgrade I know of would be staples.

great demonstration! There's a few things I'll be doing to my driveway and garage floor thanks to your videos. - John

That's the best stuff I've seen for cracks. Wonderful.

This is Michael. Great thorough explanation and your job was very well done

Very good work, especially on the prepping that is so crucial to get a proper result. Just 2 details that I would change to make the fill stronger: There is a reason why the crack happened in the 1st place, which is that the parts are drifting apart (or: were). Hence, I’d suggest to link the 2 platters by applying concrete connectors. I‘d also suggest to, depending on the depth of the crack, to apply the epoxy on the sand in 2 layers to go for sure the epoxy soaks in deep enough and fill in really all the crevices, i.e. layer one first, sand only half full, get it really soaked, then apply 2nd layer of sand and do the final fill as you were doing.

A couple of tips: running the shop vac with the hose near where you're using the angle grinder will suck up most of the dust. Also, running the shop vac as you pick at the crack will suck up dust and debris as you go. Third, if you have a crack that's propogating you'll want to use a concrete blade on a circular saw to extend the crack in a straight line in order to control where it propogates.

Excellent video. I appreciate how you thoroughly explained your process and them demonstrated it. If you are not already a vocational teacher, you could be. And a good one.

Yes to the initial question. Cut joints in the slab to begin with . 4 feet is a good starting point.

Great work, I did my garage floor during Covid, tons of filling and grinding. One recommendation I would make, build a homemade dust collector. A 5 gallon bucket, lid and a couple tubes or buy one. Probably carried 15 pounds of grinding out. And a dust collection shield for your grinder. Don’t want to breath that stuff, mask won’t cut it. Well done!

Clearly, this channel continues to be some of the very finest YouTube content!

Wow, Scott, you're really cranking out the content. Thank you!