Why professional woodworkers never use stain

I'm a professional wood worker. I use that kind of stain all the time. I can name a dozen others who use that kind of stain, as well.

Biochemist here! Not a PhD, but a MSc! I can't know this for sure, but based on what I'm seeing from the MSDS, I think it's called "Mixol" because it's alcohol-based (generally alcohols end with the suffix "-ol"), and not because it sounds like "mix-all". And alcohols would mix well with other alcohols, and usually with water as well. Makes sense that it would not mix with oils or anything hydrophobic.

This reminds me of what I learned in college painting classes, creating glazes in multiple layers. Then using this method to either diffuse a focal point or add additional depth that an opaque layer could not create. Thank you for the inspiration.

I played around with dyes and stains a lot last year to no avail. This video was more (and better) info than I found in months of searching. Thank you, this video has been a ton of help!

I was a finisher at a milling shop. We mixed all our stains ourselves. Your spot on

Has a lifelong woodworker I have finished many many projects and I've always felt this was a skill that I was weakest in. Your explanation of dyes , toners and stains was excellent. I have experimented with Adeline Dye with some success and your video added to that knowledge base. thank you !!

I'm making a thing and this is exactly the info I needed. raises coffee cup and nods

And that will be going into my saved folder to reference when I need it. Thank you again for covering something I knew nothing about.

This explanation was awesome. It will make listening to other finishing videos more understandable.

The wait is finally over! Thank you. I’ll likely stick w/ “no color,” but I can see myself opting to add depth to certain species. Thanks for the overview on how it’s done. It was worth the wait.

I love using dyes, but I also have often used a coat of yellow or deep amber shellac as a toner and/or as a way to then be able to apply further toner or stain without it penetrating into the open pores of the wood. As a former fine arts student and designer, agree the fundamentals of colour theory are particularly helpful when you start mixing up your own tints. This was an excellent tutorial, thanks so much for this detailed information and demonstration.

As an artist who is also a woodworker hearing that I can use oil paint to make any colour, exactly the shade I desire makes my heart sing. I have extensive experience with dyeing silk fabric and threads as well and thought this was the way to go. I wish I knew this when I was renovating my house and needed to match the colour of existing stained wood. I got close enough, but it has always bugged me that I couldn't get exactly what I was after. I'll be trying these techniques out on two new sets of doors that I need to make.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on colorants with us. Here's a few comments if I may: 1) you most certainly can topcoat a waterbased stain or dye colored piece with solvent-based topcoats, so let's clarify that point right away. Simply ensure you allow the time necessary for the colorant mixture (dye or stain) to fully cure before laying on the topcoat. 2) If you ever need to dulicate a finish, you'll wish that you had measured the individual elements (in your example, bix box paint, mineral spirits and oil-based poly, which is known in the industry as the topcoat). 3) here's a trick to help highlighting open pored woods: to highlight the open pores of woods such as the oak you cited in your example, pro finishers will first dye the entire piece with whatever colour they wish the background (i.e., the less porous wood areas) to finish off at, then lock that in with a light wash coat of thinned topcoat, followed by the dye they wish the open pore areas to be - which in most cases is a very contrasting colour. Then all of this is topcoated. 4) one important difference between analine dye and pigmented stain is the effect UV rays have on the two: the analine dye will rapidly degrade its tone unless you topcoat it with a highly-UV protecting product. Choose carefully, as not all topcoats will provide the required protection needed. 5 I hope this all helps.

I am the dumbest person in the room. And you just taught me some very valuable lessons. I learned a lot! Thank you Eric. I love your channel. :face-red-heart-shape:

One of the most informative videos you've made..... very practical with approachable strategies! Well done, Erik.... thanks!!

I'm really glad you covered this topic! As someone that does finish work for a living, it can get deflating trying to explain to clients why it costs so much to do compared to a can of stain from the big box stores. Especially if they have an exact tone or interior design concept they want.

So far, in my short time in my woodworking hobby, this is the most informative video I've found. Very worthwhile, even in the comments.

As a fairly new woodworker I enjoy how to and informational videos. Thank you

Eric, thanks very much for this intro into stains, dyes and toners. You've lifted the curtain and given me a good opening to start experimenting. - bonus for anyone interested: I used OSB to cover the walls of my basement shop, because it's cheap and interesting looking. My cabinet tops are all shellacked MDF (Zinsser/amber) and I tried that on the OSB. Wow! They complement the MDF and the effect is quite warm and pleasing. Cheap solution.

Why is everyone always hating on poplar. It takes stains beautifully and it has grain that is plenty interesting. It just takes extra time and care and preparation to get 'good' results. In fact, I've never seen a single wood species (of the non high oil content variety) that doesn't stain and have beautiful natural grain.