The Most CONTROVERSIAL GRADE in Climbing History
131,652
Published 2024-02-19
A tough topic, which in the past has been the catalyst for a fight with a pint down the pub...and in more recent years had the Internet riled up so much keyboard hero's have lost thousands of pounds from whole computer systems being tossed out the upstairs window in rage.
With E12 having just been proposed & repeated and an app been developed to help 'solve' E grade problems, what better time for us to release a video with discussion, 'explanation' and opinion.
We also shed light on the big 'elephant in the room' topic - The British Tech grade. A subject no one has publicly dared to even touch yet. Well don't worry, we're here to dive straight in for you.
If you get fired up easily, nail that laptop down and strap in tight. We don’t want any ipads flying into the neighbours garden.
This is gonna be a laugh isn't it 😂😉....isn't it?!......no really....it is right??
#eisforextreme😂 #eisforeggsontoast #eisforwhothefknows #eisforego #eisforexperience #eisforexcellent #egrade
Climbing footage within the video from:
- Once upon a time in the South West, • Climber's Gear Falls Out on Crux of I... @WideBoyz
Clippity Clop, www.instagram.com/outside.co.uk/reel/CzrXOUtNT-Q/
Baron Greenback, • Pete Whittaker 1st ascent Baron Green... @WildCountryClimbing
Fly Trap, • We Pushed Toby Segar Too Far! @WideBoyz
Parthian Shot, • Ben Bransby climbs Parthian Shot E10 6c @nickbrown200 @ukclimbingofficial @WideBoyz
The Walk of Life, • Now That's What I Call a First Ascent... @HotAches
Rhapsody, • Now That's What I Call a First Ascent... @HotAches
Indian Face, • Dave MacLeod - Indian Face E9 @HotAches
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All Comments (21)
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E grade is about the whole day. Like there's an E6 wall to climb, but the nearest restaurant to eat lunch at is a bit shit, so it's more like an E7
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We need an experiment. Tom and Pete climb routes without knowledge of the grade and have to guess the E grade afterwards. End of the day it doesnt really matter since O-grading is the superior system for all styles of climbing.
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The whole thing with E grades reminds me of Kalous's original aid rant. "We have a confirmed E12: there's the corpse!"
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I have always thought that I will never understand British climbing grades. I don't "think" that anymore, now I know that for sure. You know what is looks like to me? - Like an attempt to define a point position in 3-dimensional space with a single number.
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If I go and climb a V0 boulder on Tristan da Cunha (which is technically part of Britain, but the only way to get there is a 6-day boat trip from South Africa), can I call it E11 just because of how bloody hard the approach was?
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I desire the Dave Macleod reaction to this discussion. Speaking as an American who barely climbs
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I've found that when first introduced to a trad grading system with two numbers, a lot of people assume the Brits use one to grade the danger, and one to grade the physical difficulty. The problem with that kind of system, of course, is that it actually makes sense.
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We also use E grades in Ireland so 1:17 in and we're already at The Troubles levels of controversy 😂
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11:23 sounds like Pete is naming dwarves ; snappy, sketchy, slabby and smeary
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2:00 Pete, you called the final pitch of Freerider ‘about E2’ in your rope solo video of El Cap!
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You guys should definitely do a long trip up to Scotland and siege some of Dave's classics to validate that spicy take
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It like following a discussion about improvised jazz
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I'm 25min in and am waiting for the final conclusion, that the O-grade is better than the E-grade in every single way ;).
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When its just Tom and Pete sitting together you know you are in for some top quality banter
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I love how you think, "I know know what our viewers will love! A video with us sitting around pontificating about some esoteric subject." ...And you make it, and we do. I was thoroughly entertained.
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I wonder what normal people think of us
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Haha gotta love pete and background crew reaction when Tom says he hasnt climbed any of the MacLeod routes 🤣
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It sounds like the opposite of the Brazilian grading system where all the factors are separated... For example: Italianos 5° VI D1 E2 5°: overall difficulty of the route VI: grade of the crux (or cruxes) D1: duration of the route, from D1 to D5 E2: exposition, risk grade (distance between protections and quality) from E1 to E5
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00:17 I waited until the end of the video for the two "level-headed" people to join the conversation and discuss the matter... Are these two people coming on a future episode or what?
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To get really technical, risk is the combination of likelihood of occurrence and the severity of the occurrence
