9 Bad Training Habits That Damage Performance

I like all the points you emphasised but I found one missing: Not to enjoy the climb. In every gym the grading is different and often fluctuates over time but the point is to enjoy the movement. No matter how it's graded (either outside or in a gym) the point is to have fun, enjoy every move and improve. Is it graded two grades lower than you onsight and you struggle? Who cares! The route setter may have a different body type or whatsoever, if it is an enjoyable boulder problem, enjoy it. I have seen too many people in gyms and outside at crags showing nothing but frustration from their inability to reach their goals. And they are not professionals. If climbing is just your hobby sport (like mine for the past 20 years), focus on enjoying no matter the grade is!

#10: Never Downclimbing Before Coming Off a Route I see a lot of climbers skip downclimbing and trusting their ability to fall properly every time. Good falling technique is important, and downclimbing supports imperfect falling technique. In some places, gyms only set downclimb holds for beginner routes. This practice encourages climbers to think of downclimbing as "beginners only" rather than a good safety practice. Downclimbing might not be possible on every problem, but taking the more controlled falls with a bit of downclimbing helps prevent injuries that will take you out of climbing for a long time.

"Not perfecting climbs" really good one. Started working this because an injury's been forcing me to do easy climbs for a while. Really honing the beta for easy problems feels a lot more rewarding and valuable than a session full of sloppy flashes.

0:16 Bad habit 1: Not warming up your lower body. 1:15 Bad habit 2: Not resting between attempts. 2:04 Bad habit 3: Only using one grip type. 3:27 Bad habit 4: Not perfecting climbs. 4:30 Bad habit 5: Not working rest positions. 5:09 Bad habit 6: Changing your training too often. 5:56 Bad habit 7: Not persevering with one method. 6:29 Bad habit 8: Over analysing your performance. 7:19 Bad habit 9: Not brushing holds 7:42 Bad habit 10: Not wearing wash up gloves

Another potential point, at least for me, is: Be careful when you compare your own progress with someone elses progress. Also, be careful when you compare yourself as you are now with someone who is stronger than you. Both of these points risk demoralizing you, demotivating training and slippering the slope down to slower progression due to something like low motivation or bad "catching up" training. If you get hyped or engaged when doing these things, then it's not a problem obviously.

The absolute easiest way to fix #2 and rest properly between climbs is simply to climb with other people. With 3-4 people you can hit a good natural rhythm of 1-2 people climbing at a time while the rest watch and/or chat. It's also a great way to learn technique and think about route choice by critiquing (not necessarily aloud!) others' route choices and you can help each other out with pointing out holds and brushing. The obvious downside to this is the difficulty trying to get people available at the same time or trying to meet new people.

I completely agree with point #4! Doing a route properly can be a valuable learning experience. However, it's important to recognize that sometimes you may not have the necessary strength or technique to execute it perfectly, and that's okay too.

Points 6-8 are something this video made me realise I've been missing. Not just from climbing but education too. I feel like those apply to everything really, I've been very bad at managing those things and my grades have suffered as I always try to change things up, especially when the semester grades come back. Similarly, in climbing or other sports I've practiced over the years I've never kept consistent and always tried to overanalyze everything and thinking I must make changes all the time. These tips were very insightful, and to anyone with consistency issues it hopefully helps realise them better! Keep persevering!

I have gained so much useful information from lattice videos over the years, but I think that glove video from Josh takes the cake🤣

#4 and #7 (the freaking out and anxiety part) are definitely my thing lol! Great video guys especially for including gloves for dish washing! It's an often overlooked performance metric haha

Josh giving tips on washing up is the video we never knew we needed. Will be turning on notifications waiting for it.

Thank you for this video, i've been climbing since awhile now, and most videos about good or bad training habits just keep repeating things we all already know and are really basic common sense. Your advices were really relevant and new to me, so thanks a lot.

So helpful! Thanks!

Super helpful, love the content

Thanks for the glove tips Josh! I will never again have to deal with individually getting each finger back to being the right way around :D

Wow, this was awesome. Very unique

Sick soundtrack! Great episode.

Awesome!!

Like Josh I have sweaty skin and intuitively figured out that gloves were needed when washing up dishes to keep my skin dry. But unlike Josh I always bought larger gloves so I didn't struggle taking them off and just dealt with using overly sized gloves while washing up. The beta at the end was mind blowing

At 52yrs old - I have no choice but to warm up properly 🤣definitely great advice 💪