Pogačar’s Cross-Chaining, Easiest Unclipping System & Sealant On Your Valve | GCN Tech Clinic

I know some people don't like them on road bikes, but MTB pedals and cleats are pretty easy to get in and out of, the tension is easily adjustable and the added bonus is that the shoes are much easier to walk in and the cleats don't wear as quickly as they are recessed.

The other reason Pog can cross chain is that he doesn’t have to make his chain last beyond that day

Silca recommends using lube (Synergic or even better Synerg-E) to keep sealant from clogging valves/cores. They say the tungsten disulfide repels the sealant, and with Synerg-E the more viscous lubricant sticks better and lasts longer. Whenever I do sealant, I use a pipe cleaner to brush the inside of the valve tube with Snerg-E. I also keep a small container with a handful of valve cores submerged in Synerg-E to ensure that the internals of the core are coated so that any sealant that gets there won't gum it up as easily. I used to get clogs on my road bike every 2-3 weeks, now it's more like every 2-3 months. I'll typically just swap out the cores for fresh ones whenever I do my quarterly sealant top up. Gravel tires with their larger volume basically never clog for me now, and get a new valve core yearly. In all cases, re-lube the value tube with a pipe cleaner whenever you replenish sealant. As for valve cores, buy a 100 pack on Amazon for $20 and never worry about them again. At a few cents a pop, the time spent trying to unclog them just isn't worth it.

Regarding slipping seatposts, I've struggled with this in the past, chasing ever tighter clamping forces which only marginally slowed the rate of slip. The secret I found that has worked every time is, counterintuitively, lube. Lube *everything*. The seatpost, of course, and take off the seatpost collar, grease where it interfaces with the frame, and the quick release mechanism. After that I've never had an issue with a seatpost slipping with normal clamping force. Of course, if your seatpost is the wrong size for your frame there will be issues but aside from that, lube seems to be the answer.

Pog probably didn't want to risk dropping the chain by shifting to the small ring and then down the cassette at a crucial moment

Looks like Olli got the high chair 🪑

To answer question 4 - slipping seat post - I am restoring a vintage steel bike and discovered that the clamp had been tightened to the point the bolt has bent and the tube is dented. It turns out the seatpost supplied (25.6mm) was too narrow so after smoothing out the tube a new clamp and a 26.0mm post worked a treat. I am well within torque spec with no slippage despite a liberal coating of calcium grease. Vintage seat posts for steel frames are available in 0.2mm increments from 25mm tp 27.2mm (which became the first standard size on carbon and alloy bikes). Measure the seat post diameter and size up if possible, it will be much safer.

cross chaining, really doesnt cost the watts people think it does. accelerated wear? yeah sure, also at the same minuscule amount. The numbers were talking with cross changing are less significant than the difference of you shaving your legs or not for your 25kph avg charity ride. that said, do I want those extra 3-5watts? hell yea. Do a video on Alex diet and training since hes still pro level fast. Also wanna see what Ollie did with his supplements/diet to go from joking on a bike to smoking on a bike.

About pedals: important not mix up float and retention hardness. One is about movenment before unclipping, other is force threshold. And in some or other systems one can have lots of float with plenty of force (which I would find the most annoying and least safe, because you have to twist the ankle a lot and still pull hard) or little wiggle with small force (also may be not advised as one would accidentally unclip very often and potentially crash)

That cross chaining on my Dura-Ace Di2 drivetrain is what busted the cage on my rear derailleur. That cage is carbon. It cost me $140 for that half of the cage that broke and I had to wait 3 months to get it from my Shimano dealer.

Re valve clog: In one of his YT videos, Silca's Josh Poetner suggested coating both the valve core and the inner of the stem with Synergetic lube and when the bike is being stored, having the valve at 'twenty-five past' to allow the sealant to drain out of it.

Permatex aluminum anti-seize is an automotive lubricant that works well with steel to aluminum contacts in wet and salty environments. Many automotive companies throughout the world make this similar lubricant.

Unclipping: I had knee injury and can't rotate my food with force ever since. Tried a lot, even with a fitter. Only remaining option is SPD SH56 cleats. With good shoes it works surprisingly well for me, wouldn't go back if I could.

For easy release of cleats, use beeswax spray on the cleats (pedals and shoes). It makes a massive difference. My SPD's got quite reluctant to release, and this fixed it perfectly.

Regarding the seatpost slipping: First check that the seat collar bolt is not loosening as you ride, because if it is, that can be the source of the problem. The aluminium threads may not be locking the bolt in. Or, alternatively, your torque is insufficient to hold the post firmly because the threads on the bolt or collar have too much friction. Apply some grease ONLY to the thread (and keep the shoulder of the bolt grease free). This will allow the collar to tighten better, and counter-intuitively keep the bolt tight, because more friction will be on the shoulder of the bolt. Ride and re-tighten the bolt after 20 minutes, check again and re-tighten again. After the third time, (2hrs + riding) the bolt should not be loosening. Locktite Blue will also provide some lubrication to the bolt, and lock it in, so the triple-tightening method would also work, since it takes 24h to set. No need to worry about slightly overtightening, since nothing will crack in a metal setup. It is important to check and re--tighten, as the steel may only be gradually conforming to the aluminum as you ride. Flipping the opening of the seat post collar so that it is opposite (e.g. in front) to the slit in the seat tube, can also help provide a more even clamping force on the seatpost.

I put a bit of grease on the valve core, before putting it in for the first time. Fixes the problem for good.

1:41 SPD or MTB style, two bolt cleat system. The Shimano cleats labelled as "with play" or "multi-directional release", I think part number SM-SH56. They can unclip in any direction. With proper tension on the pedal I have had zero "failure to unclip"-accidents in now years since I went clipless, i.e. when I in a panic don;t think about twisting my ankle to unclip, it has always released in time to get a foot on the ground. The right tension where you also don't accidentally unclip is easy to find as well I found. Don't let yourself be peer pressured into road cleats!

After hitting a tree root and going over the bike results were a broken hip due to foot not unclipping fast enough. Researching SPD components I came across Shimano's SH-56 cleats, advertised as "multi-directional" dis-engagement. Got some, haven't tried them yet, still rehabing. Just a thought.

Tadej can cross chain because he can get replacement gear easily

Hi GCN. It seems your advice is, literally, down to a science and most times elaborates into the important nuances. I think it's very good and you guys do a great job. Chain wear checkers, however, seems to be amiss! Adam at ZFC has shown us that many chain checkers are inaccurate rubbish. Awareness of this fact will benefit the cycling community. If you're going to check chain wear, use an accurate checker, otherwise you may as well not even check.