Using Heel Diagonal to Calculate a Better Fitting Flap // Technique Tuesday

Published 2019-10-01
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Adjusting the length of the heel flap is the standard advice for modifying a sock for a better fit around the heel, but getting an accurate measurement (floor to mid-ankle bone) can be tricky. This video demonstrates how to take the heel diagonal measurement (where accuracy is easier) and use it to calculate the correct heel flap length. Written instructions for the method shown can be found further down in the description.

To jump direction to a specific point in the video, click on the adjacent time-stamped link:
Introduction 0:00
Where fit issues most likely occur: 0:20
Three components of the gusset circumference: 1:27
Calculating heel flap length using heel diagonal: 4:15


Written instructions for calculating heel flap length from heel diagonal measurement.
Example sock has 64 sts for sock; stitch gauge is 8 sts/in; heel diagonal is 12.5''

Heel diagonal x .9 x stitch gauge = target stitch count for start of gusset.
e.g. 12.5'' heel diagonal x .9 = 11.25''
11.25'' x 8 sts/in = 90 sts (target for start of gusset)

Instep and heel flap each have 32 sts
Heel sts rem after heel turn is 1/2 of heel flap sts +2 (for Round Heel)
e.g. (32 sts x .5) + 2 = 18
32 instep sts + 18 sts rem after heel turn = 50 sts
Another way to arrive at this number is
(# sock sts x .75) +2
e.g. (64 x .75) +2 = 50

sts to pick up for heel = target start of gusset - (instep and rem heel turn sts)
e.g. 90 - 50 = 40
20 sts will be picked up on each side of flap

Use stockinette gauge to determine how wide those 20 sts are.
e.g. 20 sts divided by 8 sts/in = 2.5'' (This is the length to knit the heel flap.)

If you have questions about this video, or suggestions for future videos, please let me know down in the comments or on social media.

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All Comments (21)
  • @milkjugs4771
    the amount of videos of yours I have saved is scary. You give out so much good information for FREE. Thank you so much <3
  • @joanmiller7519
    This explanation is straight forward and understandable., Thank you for breaking it down as you did. It makes perfect sense. Even if I can’t remember the formulas, I can still calculate the math because I understand the process. You teach math better than many teachers I had. I look forward to seeing what a difference this makes in knitting well fitting socks. When I measured with a tape measure, the distance I got from the floor to the middle of my ankle bone was 2 1/2”. When I used my heel diagonal to calculate the length of my heel flap, I got 3”. Thanks for all you do for the knitting community. Your expertise coupled with your ability to explain things in a meaningful way are second to none!
  • @mistyblue5312
    You are a prodigious source of information on sock knitting and we are the lucky recipients. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise with all of us. I will be keeping this video explanation for many years to come as a “how-to”reference. A file of recipient measurements is a great idea. Rox you really rock! 😃👍🏻🧶🧶❤️
  • Thank you Roxanne, I am really beginning to understand sock knitting.
  • @jeaninegunn4118
    Thanks!! I'll use this for next socks I knit for a friend with skinny ankles but wide spread of toes.
  • @pattihenry2136
    THANK YOU! Your tutorial is exactly what I have been looking for. My socks usually fit when the pattern has some give (lace, ribbing, etc.) but the sock I just finished is a plain stockinette stitch and is very snug around that heel-foot diagonal area. This solution makes perfect sense I will rip out the sock till I get to the heel and knit the heel flap longer to accommodate my foot, not that I really want to frog all that... but I'd rather do that and have socks that will fit and wear well.
  • Thank you so much Roxanne. I learn so much from you....and I've been knitting about 50 years....avidly
  • @helendakin6784
    Wow! Very comprehensive, informative and easy to understand. Thankyou very much 😊
  • I’m finally re-learning heel flaps and gussets. Made a pair of socks per pattern and they fit pretty well. I started another pair of socks with same pattern, but I forgot about this video. I examined my newly finished sock and figured out how many additional rows for my flap. That was yesterday. I just rewatched your video and did my own calculations while watching. Your method of calculating the heel flap was totally spot on!! I calculated the same number of stitches as what I knitted yesterday after much fiddling, measuring and counting. Now I know exactly what to do for the next pair without counting stitches to reverse engineer a sock that fits. I just might become a heel flap and gusset convert. Thank you AGAIN for this awesome video. 👍🏽
  • @vadec5909
    Thank you for this explanation. Just learning now
  • @nancythomas1172
    Such a clear concise video! My family have big feet! This is very helpful for me to find the right fit! Thank you!
  • When I started knitting socks, I did top down with heel flap and gusset. My socks never really fit well. I quit heel flaps and started knitting toe up with a variety of heels. My favorite is fish lips kiss heel. I’m able to calculate the mods I need for good fit. After watching this video, I think I can try heel flaps again! Thank you!!
  • @MildredGlutz
    This is very helpful! I am very tall and always have to add length to everything I make. I also have a high instep. Working on my first pair of socks. Had no idea I needed increased length in heel flap of sock. It makes so much sense. Thank you for this video! Second pair will fit better!
  • @kvmackay
    so so so helpful. you have saved a few pairs of my socks. THankyou!!
  • @imenabbasi8772
    Your rock waww thank you for all your efforts really I appreciate it I am crurrently working on a pair of socks and I am a beginner I finally understand how it works
  • @suzycue7900
    Thank you, thank you!! I have very narrow feet though I wear a size 9. I have been unable to knit an pair that fits properly. Your explanation is so understandable. I’m anxious to try it out!
  • @TeeLeigh66
    Your explainations make so much sense to me ! I particularly like it when you put the words on the screen AFTER you do the show-n-tell part. It helps me relate what you're saying to what you've just shown us. I'm on sock #2 and making good progress, thanks to all your videos.